They say sequels are never as good as the original film, but I’ve enjoyed Kauai (see this blog post) so much that I had to make a return to the Hawaiian islands for a take two. Admittedly, the two islands have completely different personalities, but they each have their way of mesmerizing visitors.
True to ourselves, we again made a very rushed stay in Hawaii. If you’re also short on time, take a look at our six-days itinerary, which covers the main spots to visit on the Big Island for the outdoorsy traveller and seekers of picturesque landscapes.
Waipi’o Valley and its Black Sand Beach.
Located at the northern tip of the island, Waipi’o Valley is a private land home to taro plantations. It also hosts Hawaii island’s tallest waterfall Hiilawe Falls and has a beautiful black sand beach.
There is a scenic lookout at the top of the hills where there are a few short-term parking spots. To get to the bottom of the valley, you can either hike or use a four-wheel drive jeep (all-wheel drive cars are not allowed).
The hike down is relatively easy (3 miles one-way), but coming back up will be strenuous unless you can hitch a ride back. The views are wonderful but the hike itself is on paved roads, which takes away from the experience a little. Otherwise, if you have a car with the proper gear, the drive down is extremely steep (more than 40% incline in some spots) so make sure you’re familiar with the usage of the low gear of a 4×4. A security agent from the park will be at the entrance to answer your questions.
Pololū Valley
On your way back from Waipio, stop by its sister valley: Pololū. The roundtrip hike is much more manageable and takes about 1h30. Although after rain, the muddy path can be slippery, so proper shoes are recommended. It also offers nice views and a black sand beach for a refreshing dip before the return trip.
Captain Cook and Kealakekua Bay
The water in Kealakekua Bay, where the Captain Cook monument stands is known to be crystal clear and hosts many different type of marine species. To get to this popular snorkelling spot, three options are available:
- Hike: 3.6 miles roundtrip, quite strenuous on the way back due to the trail being exposed to sun most of the way. It took us about 4h30 including an hour snorkelling at the monument (bring your own masks and fins). Hiking poles are helpful and bring lots of water. It is the longer option of the three but I feel that not only is it the only way to really explore the area from up close, but it also is the method that would leave the least footprint on the environment and its wildlife.
- Kayaking tour: If you’re interested in kayaking there, be aware that a tour is mandatory because you need a permit to dock your kayaks on the shore. This is to limit the number of kayaks touring the area, as its coral environment has become harmed due to excess tourists damaging the reefs.
- Boat tour: Many companies offer all-day or half-day tours that bring you to Kealakekua Bay. The boats drops anchor at a short distance from the shore and allows you a certain time to snorkel around.
See map below for the start of the trail. You can park on Napoo’poo’ road and the trailhead will just be opposite the parking lot.
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Mauna Kea
Standing 4207 meters tall, this is the highest summit in the state of Hawaii. Nevertheless, when measured from its oceanic base, it is actually more than 10 000 meters high, which makes it the tallest mountain on the planet. Lucky for us, its peak can be attained by car, if you have a four-wheel drive vehicle. Remember to stop at the observatory, about 30 minutes from the top, to acclimate your body to the lack of oxygen. Altitude sickness can be a serious problem.
We got to the visitor center where the observatory is located at around 6pm and stayed a good half hour. The parking lot was already getting full. Try to reach the summit a few moments before sunset, the views are amazing. Bring a good insulated jacket, a hat and gloves. If you’re stuck, the visitor centre offers some clothing for purchase, but the prices are steep!
After the sun sets, you can drive back down to the observatory for guided stargazing. Unfortunately, when we arrived back at the visitor center, the parking was completely full. We had to park in an empty lot down the road from the center, as did many other cars. (At your own risks!) Meanwhile, one of the hosts presented a highly entertaining and informative show as we settled down. I now know how to find the North Star!
One thing I found particularly useful is a red flashlight. Everything will be (almost) completely pitch black by the time you head back down to the center. Just minding where to put your foot can be a challenge and using an ordinary flashlight, or worse, light from your phone, will attract many angry Turn that light off! thrown your way from fellow stargazers. A red light can help you guide your way without bothering other visitors.
Lava flow
The lava flow can be viewed from the summit of Kilauea or from its entry point into the ocean at Kamokuna. Either way, the views will be most impressive around dusk, where you can really see the red glowing from the lava. Otherwise during daylight, it will just be lots of smoke.
If you choose to go to the ocean entry point, again three options are available.
- Hike: From the parking lot at the end of Highway 130 in Kalapana, a little more than 4 miles separated us from the view point. The trail is mostly loose gravel and flat, so will take an average person about 3h one way.
- Bike: Same as the hiking trail but speeded up by riding a bike, which is the method we chose. There were tons of vendors at the parking lot and business was slow that day due to the rainy forecast. We were offered two bikes for 20 USD apiece, along with some cheap headlamps for the ride back in the dark. Going at a slow pace and stopping here and there to take pictures, the trip took us about 45 min one way.
- Boat tour: Many operators offer lava viewing boat tours. From the viewpoint on the shore where we stood, we could see many boats boggling up and down the force of the current around the entry point. I feel that this option might not be the best for those prone to sea sickness.
See below map for directions to the parking lot where the bike vendors are and the bike path from there to the actual lava viewing point.
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Other chill spots:
Big Island Juice Co.: for a great tasting and healthy Acai bowl! They sell anything from juices, smoothies to sandwiches you can bring for lunch on a hike.
Fresh off the Grid: for refreshing shaved ice or juice on your way back from your Pololū hike.
Lodging
We debated a long time whether it was better to stay on the east or west coast of Big Island. I ended up deciding that splitting the time between the two coasts made more sense. As we were flying into Kona and flying out of Hilo, we booked three nights in an Airbnb in each city. The premium for returning the rental car at a separate location was worth it for us, who were on a tight schedule.
Kona area
On the west coast, we stayed at Holualoa Ekahi and loved it!. It is a cute unit located a the top of the hills in Holualoa. Apart from being very spacious and clean, the decor is also contemporary as the home is brand new. What I love the most is the backyard lanai, which faces west and is complete with dining table and separate sitting area. On a clear day, you could see the sun setting over the ocean. When we stayed, there were other guests staying at the unit next door (think of it as two semi-detached houses), but we never met them so privacy really was not an issue. The location is slightly remote. If you needed any supply for food, the supermarket is a 10 min drive away. A rental car is a must to explore Big Island.
Hilo
Mai’a Suite: Comparatively to the Kona studio, our Hilo stay was much more basic which is indeed reflected in the price we paid. It was a no-fluff studio, but was nevertheless very clean and comfortable. The hosts were extremely warm people and they have two nice dogs! Location was central to all the spots we wanted to visit on the east. Finding the house on the first night in the dark was a little tricky, but the area felt very safe to us.
Visited April 2017