Kamikōchi: Hiking in the scenic forests of Japan

Kamikōchi, literally “where the gods descended”, is a favorite spot for both local and tourist hikers. The beautiful and unspoiled forests really allow you to step away from all the busy hubbub of the city life and breathe in the nature. So last month, on the recommendation of our good friend Nick, we decided to head there.

Located in the Northern Japan Alps, in the Central Honshu Island, Kamikōchi is at its most beautiful in the fall, when the changing of the leaves adds a magical touch to the landscape. This usually happens mid-October. Apart from the mesmerizing colors, the weather is also another incentive to go. It’s cool and comfortable enough to be dressed in a long-sleeved shirt for a day trip at the base, but prepare your full winter and rain gear if you’re planning a multiple day hike to the top of the mountains.

HIKING: There’s hiking for everyone in Kamikōchi. For families with young children or elderly grandparents, a nice two-hour hike along the Azusa river is easy to do with almost no elevation. For more serious hikers, there are several well-known hikes that range from two to more than five days in the Alps. The mountain hut system is well-designed, so your night stays are not an issue as long as you plan your route well. For more information, I’ve come across this blog which has interesting descriptions of many famous hikes in Japan. Otherwise, Hiking in Japan by Lonely Planet also has valuable information to help you plan your trip.

ITINERARY: Kamikōchi is closed to cars and taxis, the only way in is by bus. We took the train from Tokyo to Matsumoto, a small city surrounded by mountains. After staying one night, we took off early in the morning after breakfast. The trip from Matsumoto train station to Shin-shimashima station is about 30 min. Once off the train, we wait for the bus that will take us to Kamikōchi (about 45 min). Getting there sounds like a big hassle, but trust me, you’ll be rewarded by the wonderful alpine landscape and feel every step of the way was worth it.

Limited Express train from Tokyo's Shinjuku station to Matsumoto station (about 3h)
Limited Express train from Tokyo’s Shinjuku station to Matsumoto station (about 3h)
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Soba at the Matsumoto train station for lunch
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Agedashi tofu
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DSC04184 Matsumoto castle. The sky was really this azure blue, no photoshop!!

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We hiked for one afternoon up to the valley of Dakesawa (about 5 hours roundtrip). The road is mainly rock with a few wood steps built at the beginning of the trail. Although it was the autumn foliage season, the place was not crowded. The large crowd stayed around the Kappa-bashi bridge, most of them posing for pictures while others hung around souvenirs stores.

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Distant view of Dakesawa
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River at the start of the trail
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Leaves starting their transformation
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Midway up our hike: starting a steep rocky climb
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Introducing Mr. Travelling Turtle. We met in the Maldives and became travel buddies
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Close-up of Mr. Turtle
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View from the base, after the hike
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